Cooler mornings are on the way, which means windows stay shut and shower steam has fewer places to go. That makes this a good week to understand where all that moisture actually ends up.

Below: why a clear mirror can fool you, a one-square test for your bath fan, how to size a new one, the outlet button to press once a month, a switch that does the remembering, and why windows sweat on cold mornings.

Reply and tell us: does your bathroom have a fan, a window, or neither? We read every one.

Your Mirror Clears Before the Air Does

A bathroom mirror fogged with steam after a hot shower, with one wiped streak of clear glass.

Warm shower air is loaded with water vapor. Your mirror starts out cooler than that air, and when damp air touches a surface below its dew point, the water comes out as tiny droplets.

The National Weather Service defines dew point as the temperature air needs to be cooled to in order to reach 100% relative humidity. In a steamy bathroom, the mirror is simply the coldest thing in the room.

TLDR: fog forms on any surface colder than the air's dew point. The mirror is just the first one you notice.

Now the part most of us miss. As the glass warms up, it climbs back above the dew point and the fog disappears. The mirror clears because the glass got warmer, while the air can still be almost as damp as it was.

That's the moment most people flip the fan off. The moisture still hanging in the air goes looking for the next cold surface: the ceiling corners, the grout, the back of the door, the towel that never quite dries.

The Home Ventilating Institute recommends leaving the fan on for 20 minutes after you use the bathroom. The EPA's mold guide says to run the fan or open a window when you shower, and that damp areas dried within 24 to 48 hours usually won't grow mold.

That's also why a bathroom can smell musty even when you're sure you run the fan. No fan at all? Open the window while you shower, and hang the towels to dry somewhere outside the bathroom.

You can check this yourself. The next time the mirror clears, run a hand along the tile or the ceiling paint near the shower. If it still feels damp, the fan's job isn't done.

The mirror is a bad clock. Use a real one, and give the fan its 20 minutes.

The One-Square Tissue Test for Your Bath Fan

Four-step tissue test for a bathroom fan: switch it on with the door open a crack, hold one square of toilet paper under the grille, let go, and if it falls, clean the cover and test again.

Image: The Home Wire

A bath fan can hum along for years while moving very little air. Dust packs the cover, and the motor spins without pulling much. Here's how to tell in about 30 seconds, with no tools.

  1. Switch it on. Run the fan with the bathroom door open a crack, so air can come in to replace what the fan pulls out.

  2. Hold one square. Hold a single square of toilet paper just under the grille.

  3. Let go. It should stick to the grille on its own.

  4. If it falls, clean the cover using the steps below, then test again.

Pull the tissue off when you're done. Don't leave it on the grille, where it can get sucked up into the housing.

To clean the cover:

  1. Switch the fan off.

  2. Pull the cover straight down a few inches until you can see the two wire springs holding it.

  3. Squeeze the springs together and lift the cover free.

  4. Wash the cover in warm, soapy water and let it dry completely.

  5. Turn off the fan's breaker before you reach into the housing.

  6. Vacuum the dust out of the housing with a brush attachment.

  7. Squeeze the springs and push the dry cover back into place.

Some covers use a center screw instead of springs. If the tissue still falls with a clean cover, the problem is likely further along, in the duct or the damper, and it's worth having a pro take a look.

Replacing a Bath Fan? Two Numbers Matter

If your fan is past saving, or you just moved into a place with a loud one, the box will throw a lot of specs at you. Two of them do the real work.

  • CFM, or airflow. The Home Ventilating Institute recommends 1 CFM per square foot of floor space for bathrooms 100 square feet or smaller. An 8-by-10 bathroom needs 80 CFM.

  • Sones, or noise. HVI puts 0.5 sones at the sound of rustling leaves, 1.0 at a refrigerator, and 4.0 at a standard TV. A quiet fan is a fan you'll actually leave running.

Bigger bathroom? HVI adds up the fixtures instead: 50 CFM each for a toilet, a shower, and a bathtub, and 100 CFM for a jetted tub. A bathroom with a toilet, a separate shower, and a tub works out to 150 CFM.

While you're comparing, look for the ENERGY STAR mark. ENERGY STAR certified ventilation fans use about 48% less energy than standard models, and they have to meet a maximum sound level in sones and a minimum airflow per watt to earn the label. That covers both of the numbers above in one sticker.

Swapping a fan means working with wiring and ductwork in the ceiling. Unless you've done electrical work before, it's a job for a licensed electrician.

The Outlet Button to Press Once a Month

Look at the outlet next to your bathroom sink. If it has TEST and RESET buttons, it's a GFCI, short for ground fault circuit interrupter.

It cuts the power in a fraction of a second if electricity starts flowing somewhere it shouldn't, like through water or through you. The Electrical Safety Foundation International says to test every GFCI once a month.

  1. Push the RESET button.

  2. Plug in a nightlight and make sure it's on.

  3. Press the TEST button. The nightlight should turn off.

  4. Push RESET again. The nightlight should come back on.

If the nightlight stays on after you press TEST, that outlet isn't protecting anyone. Have a licensed electrician check it.

Don't panic if another outlet without buttons goes dead when you press TEST. One GFCI can protect other outlets further along the same circuit, and pressing RESET brings them all back.

Test the ones in the kitchen, garage, and outside while you're at it. Renters, this check is yours to do too, and if a GFCI fails, let your landlord know.

Set a phone reminder for the first of the month and test every GFCI in the house in one lap. It only takes a few minutes, and it's the one safety device most of us never check.

The Timer Switch That Gives Your Fan Its 20 Minutes

The easiest way to stop shutting the fan off too early is to stop being the one who shuts it off. Lutron's Maestro Countdown Timer (MA-T51MN-WH) replaces your fan's wall switch. Tap it on after a shower, and it turns the fan off by itself.

You pick 5, 15, 30, or 45 minutes, and a row of small lights shows how much time is left, with the bottom one blinking as a one-minute warning. Set it to 30 and you've covered HVI's 20 minutes with room to spare.

It's rated for 3-amp fans, including DC and high-efficiency exhaust fans, according to Lutron, and it can run a light on the same timer, up to 150 watts of LED bulbs. It's $39 in white at BuyRite Electric.

Here's the catch. This switch needs a neutral wire in the switch box, and plenty of older homes don't have one there. Have an electrician confirm before you order, and renters, this one is a conversation with your landlord.

We haven't installed this exact switch ourselves. The timer settings and wiring requirement come from Lutron's product page, and the price comes from BuyRite's listing.

Links in this post may be affiliate links. The Home Wire may earn a small commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you.

Why Windows Sweat on Cold Mornings

Condensation droplets on the inside of a bedroom window on a cool autumn morning.

Same physics, different room. On a cool fall morning, window glass is often the coldest surface in the house. When warm indoor air touches it and cools below its dew point, water beads on the inside of the glass.

A little fog after a cold night isn't a crisis. Drips running down onto the sill most mornings tell you the air inside is carrying more moisture than it should.

The EPA recommends keeping indoor humidity below 60%, ideally between 30% and 50%, and says to dry condensation on windows, walls, or pipes quickly.

Wipe the sill dry when you see water there. Watch the corners and the bottom of the frame, where drips collect and paint or wood shows the damage first.

If a window fogs up between the panes instead of on the inside surface, that's a different problem. It usually means the seal between the two layers of glass has failed, and wiping won't fix it.

Showers aren't the only source. Cooking and drying clothes indoors add water to the air too, so the kitchen range fan counts as much as the one in the bathroom.

Then give the moisture somewhere to go. Run the bathroom fan its full 20 minutes, and crack a window for a few minutes after a long shower.

One quick tap

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That's Wednesday: a mirror that fools you, a tissue that doesn't, a button worth pressing, and two numbers for your next fan. Most of it takes less time than the shower itself.

Forward this to whoever in your house hits the fan switch on the way out the door.

See you tomorrow.

The Home Wire

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